Library of 19th Century Science:
The Golden Age of Geology

HMS Challenger



NARRATIVE

of the

UNITED STATES

EXPLORING EXPEDITION

DURING THE YEARS

1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 1842.

by


CHARLES WILKES, U.S.N.
COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION
MEMBER OF THE AMERICAN PHILOSOPHICAL SOCIETY, ETC.

In Five Volumes

Volume V.

Philadephia
Lea and Blenchard

1845

This electronic edition prepared by Dr. David C. Bossard
from the original documents in the holdings of Dartmouth College.

July, 2008

Copyright © 2006 by Dr. David C. Bossard.  All rights reserved.


CONTENTS.

Titlepage   iii

CONTENTS.  vi  vii  viii  ix  x  xi  xii


.CHAPTER I.   001  002  003  004  005  006  007  008  009  010  011  012  013  014  015  016  017  018  019  020  021  022  023  024  025  026  027  028  029  030  031  032  033  034
DEPARTURE FROM OAHU  -  WASHINGTON ISLAND  -  JARVIS'S ISLAND  -  MAGNETIC
EQUATOR  -  ENDERBURY'S ISLAND  -  BIRNIE'S ISLAND - HULL'S ISLAND - DUKE OF
YORK'S ISLAND - ITS NATIVES VISIT THE SHIP - THEIR ALARM AT THE FIRING OF
CANNON  -  A PARTY LANDS - ITS RECEPTION  - TATTOOING - VILLAGE - QUAYS - ABSENCE OF CULTIVATION - MUSIC - CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES -  PRODUCTIONS
DUKE OF CLARENCE'S ISLAND - BOWDITCH'S ISLAND - NATIVES SEEN FISHING
INTERVIEW WITH THEM - A PARTY LANDS - PRIEST - CAPTAIN HUDSON LANDS
INTERVIEW WITH THE KING - VILLAGE AND TEMPLE - RELICS OF A VESSEL - WELL
 - DRUMS - DRESS AND ORNAMENTS - MANUFACTURES AND TOOLS  -  POPULATION
GENTE HERMOSAS - SAVAII - UPOLU - APIA - STORM OF DECEMBER 1840 - HURRICANES
 - HALOS - PEA, THE CHIEF OF APIA - MODE OF TRADING - IMPROVEMENTS - NEW
EFFORTS OF THE MISSIONARIES - MALIETOA'S ILLNESS, AND ITS CAUSE - MOLE
STRONG GALE - DESERTION FROM THE SURVEYING PARTY - DESERTERS RECOVERED
 - DEMAND FOR THE MURDERER OF SMITH - IT IS REFUSED - EXCURSIONS OF THE
NATURALISTS - JOE GIMBLET - VISIT TO MALIETOA - RETURN OF THE BOATS - CAP
TAIN HUDSON PROCEEDS TO SALUAFATA, AND DESTROYS IT - RESULTS OF THE
PUNISHMENT - FRUITLESS ATTEMPT TO CAPTURE OPOTUNO_MATAATU - MALIETOA
 - FAREWELL VISIT FROM THE CHIEFS - THE VESSELS SAIL FROM MATAATU.

CHAPTER II.  035  036  037  038  039  040  041  042  043  044  045  046  047  048  049  050  051  052  053  054  055  056  057  058  059  060  061  062  063  064  065  066  067  068  069  070  071  072  073  074  075
THE PEACOCK AND TENDER LEAVE THE SAMOAN GROUP - ELLICE'S GROUP - CANOES
 - ITS NATIVES - THEIR LANGUAGE - DEFEYSTER'S ISLAND - ITS NATIVES - ALBINOS
CLOTHING OF ITS INIIABI'l'ANTS - THEIR SYMBOL OF PEACE - WOMAN AND CHIEF
OF THE ISLAND - FOOD OF THE NATIVES_1IARBOtIR - VISIT FROM TIlE KING - THE
NATIVES' KNOWLEDGE OF OTHER LANDS - THEIR RELIGION - SPEIDEN'S ISLAND
HUDSON'S ISLAND - ST. AUGUSTINE  -  DRUMMOND'S ISLAND - ITS NATIVES - THEIR
HEADDRESS - THEIR LANGUAGE - THEIR WEAPONS - THEIR DEFENSIVE ARMOUR
THEIR ORNAMENTS - THEIR CANOES - A PARTY LANDS AT UTIROA - ITS RECEPTION
 - RUDENESS AND PILFERING OF THE NATIVES - DANCE - SECOND VISIT TO UT1ROA
 - RECEPTION IN THE COUNCILHOUSE - INCREASED RUDENESS OF THE NATIVES
ONE OF THE SEAMEN MISSING - MESSAGE SENT TO THE UTJR0ANs - TOWNS ON
DRUMMONDS ISLAND - DETERMINATION TO PUNISH UTIROA FOR THE MURDER
EXPEDITION AGAINST THAT TOWN - PARLEY WITH ITS INHABITANTS  -  UTIROA
BURNT - CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES OF ETA - CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF
DRUMMOND'S ISLAND - SUPPLIES FOR SHIPS - BISHOP'S ISLAND -  HENDERVILLE
ISLAND - HALL'S ISLAND - APAMAMA - JOHN KIRBY TAKEN ON BOARD - WOODLE'S
ISLAND - DISGRACEFUL CONDUCT OF AN ENGLISH WHALER - ERRORS OF CHARTS
TARAWA - APIA - IDOL - THE TENDER GROUNDS - DRIFT OF THE PEACOCK - THREAT
ENED ATTACK ON THE TENDER - MATTHEW'S ISLAND - PITT'S ISLAND - MAKIN
ROBERT WOOD TAKEN ON BOARD - NATIVES OF I'ITT'S ISLAND - THEIR CANOES
THEIR TREATMENT OF FEMALES - KING TEKERE AND HIS RELATIVES - A NATIVE
DESIRES TO BE TAKEN FROM THE ISLAND

CHAPTER III.  076  077  078  079  080  081  082  083  084  085  086  087  088  089  090  091  092  093  094  095  096  097  098  099  100  101  102  103  104  105  106  107  108  109  110  111  112
SOURCES OF INFORMATION IN RELATION TO THE KINGSMILL GROUP - ISLANDS OF
WHICH IT IS COMPOSED - THEIR GENERAL CHARACTER - THEIR SOIL - TARO - PONDSTRADITION
OF THE ORIGIN OF THE PEOPLE - ANCIENT INTERCOURSE BETWEEN
THE ISLANDS - PHYSIOGNOMY AND APPEARANCE OF THE NATIVES - THEIR SOCIAL
STATE - GOVERNMENT -  DESCENT OF PROPERTY - RELIGIOUS BELIEF - PRIESTS - ORA
CLES - OMENS - PRETENDED COMMUNICATION WITH SPIRITS - BELIEF IN A FUTURE
STATE - THEIR ELYSIUM - THEIR MODE OF LIFE - THEIR CHARACTER - THEIR TREAT
MENT OF CHILDREN, OF THE AGED, AND OF WOMEN - THEIR WARS - CANNIBALISM
NOT PRACTISED  - THEIR WEAPONS - THEIR HOUSES AND CANOES - THEIR MANU
FACTURES - DRESS -  ORNAMENTS - THEIR FOOD - THEIR MODE OF COOKING - THEIR
AMUSEMENTS - THEIR MARRIAGES - MODE OF GIVING NAMES - PRACTICE OF ABOR
TION - TATTOOING - FUNERAL CEREMONIES -  DISEASES - CLIMATE OF THE GROUP
EARTHQUAKES  -  POPULATION  -  THEIR INTERCOURSE WITH STRANGERS  -  THEIR
PRONENESS TO SUICIDE - THEIR IDEA OF AN ACCOMPLISHED PERSON - CONTRAST
BETWEEN PITT'S AND THE OTHER ISLANDERS - DEPARTURE 01' THE PEACOCK AND
FLYING - FISH FROM THE KINGSMILL GROUP - THEIR CREWS PUT ON SHORT ALLOW
ANCE -  PESCADORES  -  KORSAKOFF - OBJECTS REMAINING IJNACCOMI'LISJI ED - SEPA
RATION OF THE VESSELS - LARGE QUANTITIES OF MOLLUSCIE - SillI' MAGNOLIAOAIIIJ -
ARRIVAL AT AND.DEPARTURE FROM IIONOLULU - REACH COLUMBIA RIVER

CHAPTER IV. 113  114  115  116  117  118  119  120  121  122  123  124  125  126  127  128  129  130  131  132  133  134  135  136  137  138  139  140  141  142  143  144  145  146  147  148
PREPARATIONS FOR THE SURVEY OF THE COLUMBIA - DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS - .
BAKERS BAY - LIEUTENANT DR HAVEN SENT TO MEET MR. ELD - RAMSEY AND
GEORGE, THE PILOTS - RETURN TO ASTORIA - PWICHASE OF A BRIG - MESSRS. HALE
AND DANA GO WITH DR. M'LAUGHLIN - TRADE WITH THE INDIANS - SUPERSTITIONS
OF THE INDIANS - SURVEY RESUMED - TONGUE POINT - THE VESSELS GROUND
WAUCAIKUM - PREVALENCE OF FEVER AND AGUE - PILLAR ROCK - BOAT CAPSIZED
 - KATALAMET POINT - LIEUTENANT EMMONS ORDERED TO SAN FRANCISCO - FIRE
ON MOUNT COFFIN - PORPOISE GROUNDS AGAIN - WARRIORS POINT - VANCOUVER
SIR GEORGE SIMPSON - DIVIDENDS OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY - FORMAL DINNER
 - CHANGED APPEARANCE OF VANCOUVER - OBSERVATIONS AT VANCOUVER - ARRI
VAL OF MR. ELD'S PARTY - HIS EXPEDITION - HIS DEPARTURE FROM NISaUALLY
SQUAW CHIEF - PORTAGE TO THE SACHAL - LAKES - EMBARKATION AND DESCENT
OF THE SACHAL - COUNTRY ON THE CHICKEELES - CARVED PLANKS - MR. ELD
ENTERS GRAYS HARBOUR - THE INDIANS REFUSE HIM AID - DIFFICULTIES ATTEND
ING THE SURVEY - MR. ELDS PARTY IS RELIEVED BY LIEUTENANT DE HAVEN
SURVEY OF THE RIVER COMPLETED - CHARACTER OF GRAY'S HARBOUR - INDIANS
OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD - DEPARTURE FROM GRAY'S HARBOUR - PASSAGE ALONG
THE COAST - ARRIVAL OF MR. ELD AT ASTORIA - ORGANIZATION OF THE EXPEDI
TION TO CALIFORNIA - DEPARTURE FROM VANCOUVER - POSTS OF THE HUDSON BAY
COMPANY - TRADE OF THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY - CLIMATE OF OREGON - WINDS
FEVER AND AGUE - INDIAN POPULATION - PROGRESS DOWN THE RIVER - LETTERS
FROM THE UNITED STATES - DEEP WATER - SURVEY OF THE COWLITZ - PLJGET
ISLAND - PILLAR ROCK - CHANNEL AT TONGUE POINT - RETURN TO ASTORIA - POR
POISE ANCHORS AT ASTORIA - PRIMEVAL FOREST  - PREPARATIONS FOR PASSING
THE BAR - DISPOSITION MADE OF THE PEACOCK'S LAUNCH - BAR PASSED - SURVEYS
COMPLETED - ORNAMENTS, NORTHWEST COAST - WE SAIL FOR SAN FRANCISCO
LETTER OF THANKS TO DR. M'LAUGHLIN - VOYAGE TO SAN FRANCISCO - ARRIVAL
THERE - LAUNCH DESPATCHED TO MEET LIEUTENANT EMMONS

CHAPTER V. 149  150  151  152  153  154  155  156  157  158  159  160  161  162  163  164  165  166  167  168  169  170  171  172  173  174  175  176  177  178  179  180  181  182  183  184  185  186  187  188  189  190  191  192  193  194  195  196  197  198  199  200  201  202  203  204  205  206  207  208  209  210  211  212  213  214
ARRIVAL OF THE VINCENNES AT SAN FRANCISCO - PREPARATIONS FOR THE SUR
VEYS  - SAUSALITO  - LONG DROUGHT  -  PRESIDIO  -  ALCALDE OF YERBA BUENA
TOWN OF YERBA BUENA - UNSETTLED STATE OF CALIFORNIA - CLIMATE OF SAN
FRANCISCO - SOIL - CLIMATE OF CALIFORNIA -  RIVERS_HARBOURS - TRADE
 - MANUFACTURE OF WINE  - INDUSTRY  - MILLS  -  SHEEP - SWINE - MAGISTRATES AND
ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE - REVOLUTIONS OF CALIFORNIA - OPINIONS IN RELATION
TO THEM -  RELATIONS WITH MEXICO - MODE OF RECRUITING FOR THE MISSIONS -
PRESENT CONDITION OF THE INDIANS - CHANGE IN THE ADMINISTRATION OF THE
MISSIONS - ITS EFFECTS ON THE INDIANS - THEIR NUMBERS - NUMBERS OF THE
WHITES - THEIR HEALTH - THEIR CHARACTER - THEIR MORALS - THEIR HOSPITALITY
 - THEIR CRUELTY - EXPEDITION UP THE SACRAMENTO - BAY OF SAN PABLO - DELTA
OF THE SACRAMENTO - CAPTAIN SIJTER - NEW HELVETIA - CAPTAIN SUTER'S FARM
ING AND OTHER AVOCATIONS - INDIAN DANCE - DISEASES - ROUTE TO OREGONDEPARTURE
FROM NEW HELVETIA - FEATHER RIVER - GAME - THE TULA - INDIANS
 - BEARS - INTERVIEW WITH A CHIEF - MANNERS, ETC., OF THE INDIANS - THEIR
RANCHERIA - THEFT BY AN INDIAN -  BUTE PRAIRIE - FISH - WEIR - KINKLA TRIBE
HUNTING - RETURN TO NEW TIELVETIA - AMERICAN SETTLERS - INDIAN VILLAGESOCCUPATIONS
OF THE TWO SEXES - ARIDITY OF THE COUNTRY - CROPS - ANIMALS
RETURN OF SURVEYING PARTY TO THE VINCENNES - VISITS OF THE INHABITANTS
TO THE SHIP - MARTINEZ FAMILY - AMUSEMENTS -  - CAPTAIN RICHARDSON - VALLEY
OF NAPPA - TOWN OF ZONOMA - GENERAL VALLEJO - MISSION OF SAN RAFAELFETE
IN HONOUR OF A SAINT - BEAR AND BULL FIGHT - EXCURSION TO SANTA
CLARA - EMBARCADERO - ESTANCIA OF PERALTOS - DON MIGUEL DE PEDRORENA
MISSION OF SANTA CLARA - PADRE MERCADOR - CHURCH OF SANTA CLARA - GAR
DEN - PUEBLO OF SAN JOSE - ITS ALCALDE  - MODE OF CONDUCTING BUSINESS IN
CALIFORNIA -  DIFFICULTY IN PROCURING HORSES  - DEPARTURE FROM SANTA
CLARA  - CALIFORNIAN HORSEMAN -  RANCHEROS -  LAS PULGAS  - ESTANCIA OF
SE1OR SANCHEZ - YERBA BUENA - RETURN TO THE SHIP.

CHAPTER VI.  215  216  217  218  219  220  221  222  223  224  225  226  227  228  229  230  231  232  233  234  235  236  237  238  239  240  241  242  243  244  245  246  247  248  249  250
EQUIPMENT OF LIEUTENANT EMMONS'S PARTY  -  MULTUNOMAH
ISLAND  -  DIFFICULTIES  -  SICKNESS  -  INEFICIENCY OF SOME OF THE MEN  -
SETTLERS ON THE WILLIAMETTE  - MISSIONARIES  - THOMAS M'KAY
 -  DEPARTURE FROM THE WILLAMETTE -  ENCAMPMENT AT TURNER'S
 - UPPER VALLEY OF THE WILLAMETTE  -
CREOLE AND IGNAS CREEKS - LAKE GUARDIPII  - WOLVES  - MALE CREEK - ELK
MOUNTAINS - ELK RIVER - FORT UMPQUA - HOSTILE BEARING OF THE INDIANS
PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENCE - NEW SPECIES OF OAK - DISCONTENT OF THE
TRAPPERS - FIRE IN THE PRAIRIES - BILLEY'S CREEK - FORD OF THE UMPQUA - ANIMALS
 - INDIAN SCOUTS - GRISLY BEARS - INDIAN FOUND IN THE CAMP - UMPQUA
MOUNTAINS -  SHASTE COUNTRY - YOUNG'S CREEK - PINE SUGAR - ROGUES' RIVER - INASS
SURPRISED BY INDIANS - SCENES OF FORMER CONFLICTS WITH INDIANS - FRIENDLY
INDIANS - SUFFERINGS FROM THE AGUE - THREATENED ATTACK - ANTELOPES
RABBITS  -  BOUNDARY MOUNTAINS -  EMMONS'S PEAK - MOUNT SHASTE  -  KLAMET
RIVER - INTERVIEW WITH INDIANS - SHASTE INDIANS - THEIR SKILL IN ARCHERY
SHASTE RANGE - LARGE PINES  -  CHALYBEATE SPRING  - DESTRUCTION RIVER
VALLEY OF THE SACRAMENTO - KINKLA INDIANS - THEIR VILLAGE - FAILURE TO
OBTAIN CANOES - FORD OF THE SACRAMENTO - BUTES - FEATHER RIVER - CAPTAIN
SUTER'S - RELICS OF AN EXTINCT TRIBE - THE PARTY DIVIDED - RIVER SAN
JOACHIM - MISSION OF SAN JOSE - SANTA CLARA - YERBA BUENA - NOSTRA SENORA DE
LOS DOLORES - THE LAND DIVISION REACHES THE VINCENNES - RESULTS OF THE
EXPEDITION - CLOSING SCENE.

CHAPTER VII. 251  252  253  254  255  256  257  258  259  260  261  262  263  264  265  266  267  268  269  270  271  272
PREPARATIONS FOR SAILING - NEW DISTRIBUTION OF OFFICERS - LIEUTENANT CARR
APPOINTED TO THE COMMAND OF THE OREGON - PLAN OF OPERATIONS - DEPAR
TURE FROM SAN FRANCISCO - DANGEROUS POSITION OF THE VINCENNES - DEATH
OF A MARINE - HIS BURIAL - SEARCH FOR COPPER'S ISLAND - PAILOLO CHANNEL
ARRIVAL AND RECEPTON AT HONOLULU - CASE OF HERRON, THE COOPER - TRADE
OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS - THEIR POLITICAL RELATIONS - THEIR FUTURE PROSPECTS -
FINAL DEPARTURE FROM THEM - THE BRIGS PART COMPANY - INSTRUCTIONS
TO MR. KNOX - THE FLYING - FISH PARTS COMPANY - SEARCH FOR MALOON'S, JANE'S
AND CORNWALLIS ISLANDS - WAKE'S ISLAND - SEARCH FOR HALCYON AND FOL
GERS ISLANDS - LADRONE ISLANDS -  GRIGAN - SEARCH FOR COPPER'S ISLAND
SABTANG AND BATAN - CAPE CAPONES - FLYING - FISH REJOINS THE VINCENNES
WE ANCHOR IN THE BAY OF MANILLA - GOVERNMENT GALLEY - CRUISE OF THE
FLYING - FISH - SEARCH FOR CORNWALLIS ISLAND - REEF DISCOVERED - SEARCH FOR
SAN PABLO - MULGRAVE ISLANDS - BAPHAM'S, HUNTER'S, AND BARINGS ISLANDS
 - M'KENZIE'S GROUP.

CHAPTER VIII.  273  274  275  276  277  278  279  280  281  282  283  284  285  286  287  288  289  290  291  292  293  294  295  296  297  298  299  300  301  302  303  304  305  306  307  308  309  310  311  312  313  314  315  316  317  318  319
ARRIVAL AT MANILLA - VISIT FROM THE CAPTAIN OF THE PORT - VIEW OF THE
CITY - LANDING AT MANILLA - ANCHORAGE - FORT OF CAVITE - CITY AND ITS
BUILDINGS - ITS POPULATION - KIND RECEPTION BY THE AMERICAN CONSUL - WANT
OF FACILITIES FOR REPAIRS - CITY GOVERNMENT - DISCOVERY AND OCCUPATION
OF THE PHILIPPINES - POLICY OF THE CONQUERORS - GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF
THE ISLANDS - PRODUCTIONS AND AGRICULTURE -  AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS
USE OF THE BUFFALO - CULTURE OF RICE - MANILLA HEMP - COFFEE - SUGAR - COT.
TON - MODE OF TAKING PRODUCE TO MARKET - PROFITS OF AGRICULTURE - LABOUR
 - RAVAGES OF LOCUSTS - INHABITANTS - NATIVE TRIBES - POLICY OF THE GOVERN
MENT - CAPABILITIES FOR COMMERCE - MILITARY FORCE - INTERNAL DISTURBANCES
 - VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR - TENURE AND EMOLUMENTS OF HIS OFFICE - VISITS
TO GOVERNMENT OFFICERS - CAPTAINS SALOMON AND IIALCON - ROYAL CIGAR
MANUFACTORY - MANUFACYURES  - PINA  -  DANCING - MASTER AND PUPIL -
OCCUPATIONS OF THE HIGHER CLASSES - MARRIAGES - DRIVE ON THE PRADO - THEATRE
TERTULIA  -  DRESS OF THE NATIVES  - COCK - FIGHTING - MARKET -  FISH INC - BOATSBANCA -
TRADE OF MANILLA - ENVIRONS OF THE CITY - CAMPO SANTO - BELLS AND
BELFRIES - CONVENT - TAGALA TRIBE - TAGALA GRAMMAR - REVENUE OF THE
PHILIPPINES - SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT - EXPEDITION TO THE INTERIOR - SANTA ANNA.
 - PATIVAS - FISHERIES ON THE RIVER AND LAKE - LAGUNA DR BAY - JALUJALU
SANTA CRUZ - MISSION OF MAGJAIJAI - ASCENT OF MOUNT MAGJAIJAI - RETURN TO
THE MISSION - INSTANCE OF ECCLESIASTICAL DISCIPLINE - BAJA - HOT SPRINGS OF
BAOS - ASCENT OF MOUNT MAQLJILING - LAKE DE TAAL - BAiOS - MULTITUDE OF
BIRDS - SCENERY ON THE PASIG - RETURN TO MANILLA - PREPARAT1ONS FOR SAIL.
ING - DEPARTURE FROM MANILLA.

CHAPTER IX.   320  321  322  323  324  325  326  327  328  329  330  331  332  333  334  335  336  337  338  339  340  341  342  343  344  345  346  347  348  349  350  351  352  353  354  355  356  357  358  359  360  361  362  363  364  365  366  367
DEPARTURE FROM MANILLA - INSTRUCTIONS TO MR. KNOX - MINDORO -  - SEMARARA
PANAY - FLYING - FISH LEAVES US - BAY OF ANTIQUE - SAN JOSE - MINDANAO -
CALDERA - FORESTS OF MINDANAO - SANGBOYS - SOOLOO - SOUNG - CANOES OF SOOLOO
WE LAND AT SOOLOO - VISIT TO THE DATU MULtI - HIS RESIDENCE - VISIT TO THE
SULTAN - HIS RESIDENCE - HIS PERSON AND DRESS - TREATY MADE WITH HIM - THE
HEIR APPARENT - WE ARE REFUSED PERMISSION TO VISIT THE INTERIOR - PISTOL
STOLEN - CHINESE QUARTER - THE KRIS - MARKET - BLOCKS OF AMERICAN GRANITE
 - STOLEN PISTOL RETURNED - VISIT OF THE NATURALISTS TO MARONGAS - FISHING
APPARATUS - SURVEY OF THE HARBOUR OF SOUNG - SLAVES EMPLOYED AS
ACCOUNTANTS - BEASTS OF BURDEN - PROHIBITION OF SWINE - CHARACTER OF THE
PEOPLE OF SOOLOO - THEIR DRESS - OCCUPATIONS - STATE OF SOCIETY - MOUNTAIN
TRIBES - FORTS - POPULATION - COMMERCE - DUTIES - ADVICE TO TRADERS - POSSIBLE
EXTENSION OF TRADE - HISTORY OF SOOLOO - ATTEMPT OF THE ENGLISH EAST
INDIA COMPANY TO OPEN A TRADE - ATTEMPTS AT CONQUEST BY THE SPANIARDS
 - GRANT OF BALAMBANGAN TO THE EAST INDIA COMPANY - ENGLISH SETTLEMENT
 - ITS FATE - FORMER PROSPERITY OF SOOLOO - PIRACIES OF THE SOOLOOS - MALAY
PIRATES - THE BAJOWS - THEIR CHARACTER - CLIMATE OF SOOLOO - DISEASES
RELIGION  - DEPARTURE FROM SOOLOO - PANGOOTAARAANG  -  CAGAYAN SOOLOO
MANGSEE ISLANDS  - SURVEYS  -  BALAMBANGAN  - BORNEO  - THE DYACKS  -  THEIR
CHARACTER, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS - NAVIGATION OF THE SOOLOO
SEA - PASSAGE TO SINGAPORE - ARRIVAL THERE - REUNION OF THE SQUADRON -
PROCEEDINGS OF THE PORPOISE AND OREGON - NECKER ISLAND - FRENCH - FRIGATE SHOALMARO REEF.

CHAPTER X.  368  369  370  371  372  373  374  375  376  377  378  379  380  381  382  383  384  385  386  387  388  389  390  391  392  393  394  395  396  397  398  399  400  401  402  403  404  405  406  407  408  409  410  411  412
VARIETY OF SHIPPING IN THE ROADS - VIEW OF THE TOWN - AMERICAN CONSUL
 - ENTRANCE OF THE RIVER -  LANDING  - VIEW FROM THE CONSULATE - GREAT
VARIETY OF COSTUMES, RACES, RELIGIONS, AND LANGUAGES - POLICE AND
MILITARY FORCE - HISTORY OF THE SETTLEMENT OF SINGAPORE - ITS GOVERNMENT
 - TREATYOF 1824 - POLICY OF HOLLAND  - CHEAPNESS OF BUILDING  -
SOCIERTY - ISLAND OF SINGAPORE - TIGERS - BOTANY AND CULTIVATION OF PLANTS - MODE OF
CONVEYANCE -  CHINESE INHABITANTS - THEIR GAMBLING - THEIR APPEARANCE
AND DRESS - THEIR TEMPLE - THEIR FESTIVAL OF THE NEW YEAR - THEIR
THEATRICALS - THEIR FUNERALS - FESTIVAL OF THE SHIITE MAHOMEDANS - AMUSEMENTS
OF THE GENTOOS - BANISHED BRAHMIN - MAHOMEDAN SECTS - CONVICTS - MARKET
CIJRRENCY - TRADES - MALAYS - ARMENIANS - PARSEES - ARABS - CAFFRES - MIXTURE
OF RACES - CHINESE CEMETERY - GENTOO BURIAL - PLACE - MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY
 - AMERICAN MISSIONARIES - PAPUAN SLAVES - MANUSCRIPTS - SHIP OF THE KING OF
COCHIN - CHINA -  -  -  - CHINESE JUNKS - TRADE OF SINGAPORE - TAXES -  - SLAVERY - OPIUM
SHOPS - SMALL PROPORTION OF FEMALES IN THE POPULATION - PENINSULA OF
MALACCA - ITS GOVERNMENT - ITS RELIGION - MALAY CEREMONIES AT BIRTHS,
MARRIAGES, AND FUNERALS - MALAY SACRIFICES - ANIMALS OF MALAYAN
PENINSULA - PROBABLE INFLUENCE OF STEAM ON THE TRADE OF THE EAST - RAVAGES
OF THE WHITE ANTS - CLIMATE OF SINGAPORE - SALE OF FLYING - FISH - DEPARTURE
FROM SINGAPORE.

CHAPTER XI.  413  414  415  416  417  418  419  420  421  422  423  424  425  426  427  428  429  430  431  432  433  434  435  436  437  438  439  440  441  442  443  444  445  446  447  448  449  450  451  452  453  454  455  456
DEPARTURE FROM SINGAPORE - STRAITS OF RHIO - STRAITS OF BANCA - STRAITS OF
SUNDA - INDIAN OCEAN - CURRENTS AND METEOROLOGICAL PHENOMENA OFF THE
CAPE OF GOOD HOPE - ARRIVAL IN TABLE BAY - CAPE TOWN - GOVERNMENT OF THE
COLONY - TAXES - BANKING - WINE TRADE - CATTLE - IMPORT TRADE - HOTTENTOTS
 - CAFFRE TRIBES - VISIT TO CONSTANTIA - ASTRONOMY AND MAGNETIC
OBSERVATIONS - ASCENT OF TABLE MOUNTAIN - GREEN POINT - LIGHTHOUSE - EXCHANGE
GARDEN OF THE BARON VON LUDWIG - CLIMATE OF THE CAPE - PHENOMENA OF
REFRACTION - TENURES OF LAND - DEPARTURE FROM TABLE BAY - VOYAGE TO ST.
HELENA  - JAMESTOWN - VISIT TO THE TOMB OF NAPOLEON AND LONGWOOD
MAGNETIC OBSERVATORY - PLANTATION - HOUSE - DEPARTURE FROM ST. HELENA
PASSAGE TO THE UNITED STATES - ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK - CONCLUSION..

CHAPTER XII.  457  458  459  460  461  462  463  464  465  466  467  468  469  470  471  472  473  474  475  476  477  478  479  480  481  482  483  484  485  486  487  488  489  490  491  492  493  494  495  496  497  498  499  500  501  502
CONNEXION OF THE SUBJECTS -  OPPORTUNITIES AND MEANS OF OBSERVING
CURRENTS -  DISTINCTION BETWEEN STREAMS AND CURRENTS  - CURRENTS OF THE
NORTH ATLANTIC - LABRADOR STREAM - GULF STREAM - RENNELL CURRENT -
SUBMARINE POLAR STREAMS - GUINEA STREAM - EQUATORIAL STREAM -
RECAPITULATION - SARGASSO SEA - STREAMS OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC - BRAZIL STREAM
PATAGONIAN STREAM - SOUTH AFRICAN STREAM - PHENOMENA OF THE
NEIGHBOURHOOD OF ST. HELENA - POLAR STREAM OFF CAPE HORN - ITS LOW SUBMARINE
TEMPERATURE - CHILI STREAM - PHENOMENA AT THE GALLIPAGOS ISLANDS -
INDICATION OF SUBMARINE POLAR STREAMS - PHENOMENA AT THE SOCIETY ISLANDS
AT THE SAMOAN GROUP - AT THE FEEJEE GROUP - AUSTRALIAN STREAM -
SOUTHERN POLAR STREAM - NEW ZEALAND CURRENTS - CURRENTS BETWEEN TONGA AND
FEEJEE - SUDDEN RUSH OF WATERS ON THE POLYNESIAN ISLANDS - SPACE OF VERY
ELEVATED TEMPERATURE - PACIFIC EQUATORIAL STREAMS - PHENOMENA OF THE
SANDWICH ISLANDS - STREAMS OF THE NORTHWEST COAST - JAPAN STREAM - CUR.
RENTS OF THE CHINA SEAS - OP THE EAST COAST OF AFRICA  - EQUATORIAL
STREAM OF THE INDIAN OCEAN - CURRENTS OF THE MALABAR COAST, CHAGOS,
AND COMORRO ISLANDS - STREAMS OF THE MOZAMBIQUE CHANNEL - EQUATORIAL
STREAM OF THE SOUTH ATLANTIC - GENERAL VIEW OF THE FACTS - ZONES OF
CALMS AND STILL WATERS - SUGGESTIONS IN RELATION TO THE THEORY OF CUR.
RENTS - CONNEXION OF THE OCEAN STREAMS WITH THE MIGRATIONS OF THE
SPERM WHALE - IMPORTANCE AND EXTENT OF THE WHALING INTEREST - CIUJIS.
ING - GROUNDS OF SPERM WHALERS - IN THE PACIFIC - IN THE ATLANTIC - IN THE
INDIAN OCEAN - DIRECTIONS FOR WHALING IN THE PACIFIC - RELATIVE TO THE
DECREASE OF WHALES - RIGHT WHALE FISHERY - DEPRAVED CHARACTER OF THE
NEW ZEALAND AND AUSTRALIAN WHALERS - CASE OF THE AMERICAN WHALE.
SHIP ADELINE - RIGHT WHALE FISHERY IN HIGH LATITUDES -  EXCITEMENT OF
THE FISHERY - SLAUGHTER AND TREATMENT OF THE PRODUCTS - PROFITS OF THE
BUSINESS - FREQUENCY OF DISPUTES BETWEEN THE MASTERS AND CREWS - REME
DIES SUGGESTED - PROPOSAL FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE MORALS AND CONDITION
OF THE CREWS.

APPENDIX.  503  504  505  506  507  508  509  510  511  512  513  514  515  516  517  518  519  520  521  522  523  524  525  526  527  528  529  530  531  532  533  534  535  536  537  538  539
I. CAPTAIN HUDSON'S ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT WALKER  507
II. CAPTAIN HUDSON'S ORDERS TO LIEUTENANTS WALKER AND EMMONS, ETC.
III. CAPTAIN HUDSON'S ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT WALKER 512
IV. ORDERS TO LIEUTENANT EMMONS 514
V. LETTER TO DR. M'LAUGHLIN 519
VI. ORDERS TO VINCENNES 520
VII. STATISTICS, CALIFORNIAN MISSIONS 522
VIII. LETTER TO GOVERNOR KEKUANAOA 523
IX. STATISTICS, HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, SCHOOLS, ETC 526
X. ORDERS TO PORPOISE AND OREGON 528
XI. ORDERS TO FLYING - FISH 530
XII. EXPORTS FROM MANILLA 531
XIII. SOOLOO TREATY 532
XIV. ORDERS TO PORPOISE AND OREGON 533
X. STATISTICAL RETURNS OF THE POPULATION OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 535
XVI. VALUE OF COINS, ST. HELENA 535
XVII. VALUE OF EXCHANGE IN THE VARIOUS PORTS 538
XVIII. TABLE OF MEASUREMENTS OF THE VARIOUS RACES OF THE POLYNESIAN ISLANDS 539


GENERAL INDEX. 541  542  543  544  545  546  547  548  549  550  551  552  553  554  555  556  557  558




PLATES


Click for plate at 100 ppi
DESCRIPTION

Scene at Catafu Island
frontispiece
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Cocanut grove at Fakaafo or Bowditch Island
(page 14)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Ficus or Banyan Tree, Upolu
(page 26)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Utiroa
(page 52)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Interior of Mariapa, Deummond's Island
(page 56)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Chief of Eta
(page 78)
400 ppi plate
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Astoria, Columbia River
(page 112)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Pine Forest, Oregon
(page 116)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Map of Upper California
(page 150)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Shaste Peak
(page 240)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Encampment of the Sacramento
(page 244)
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  Description of Frontispiece



City of Manila
(page 274)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Manila Cottage
(page 292)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Map of the Sooloo Sea and Archipelago
(page 322)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Mosque in the town of Sooloo
(page 332)
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  Description of Frontispiece



Son of the Sultan, Sooloo
(page 336)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Chinese Temple, Singapore
(page 370)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece



Map Illustrative of
 Currents and Whaling Grounds
(page 456)
400 ppi plate
  Description of Frontispiece